Lead climbers place protection and clip the rope through it as they climb. In contrast to top roping, where the rope is always above you and ready to catch you if you fall, a lead climber will fall twice as far as they are above the last piece of protection, plus however far the rope stretches during a fall. With that in mind, the leader should be aware at all times of any obstructions below them that they could hit if they fell, and also how far above the last piece of protection they are.
What you'll need
- Climbing Rope
- Climbing Helmet
- Climbing Harness
- Climbing Shoes
- Belay Device
- Anchor Material (4 locking carabiners, and a double length sling or cordelette at a minimum)
- Quickdraws (1 per bolt + 1 extra)
- Optional: Rappel gear (rappel extension + locking carabiner, belay device + locking carabiner, and friction hitch + locking carabiner)
- Optional: Stick Clip
Keep track with this checklist!
Getting Started
Find the bottom of the climb by cross-referencing guidebooks and beta you find online. You can find guidebooks at your local climbing shop or climbing gym. Look for a line of bolts or rock features that match the description and photos of your desired climb, and a chain anchor at the top.
As the climber climbs, they will place quickdraws into the bolts along the route. The belayer will feed out enough slack so that the climber can climb freely, but keep a close watch on how much slack is in the system to give a quick catch if they fall.
Etiquette
If another party reaches the climb first, let them climb first. Look for another route or ask when they will be finished.