Building a Sport Anchor

Once you get to the top of a single pitch climb, you may have one of these goals in mind:

a) Setting up a top rope for your partner

If your partner is planning to climb the route as well, you need an anchor for top roping. The two most common anchors to use as sport anchor are the sliding x with limiting knots and the quad. The same anchor building principles as top-rope anchors apply.

Toprope anchor is set up. Ready to lower!
Toprope anchor is set up. Ready to lower!

Keep track with this checklist!

b) Cleaning all gear (no follower)

If your partner is not going to climb or you are the last one up, you need to clean the anchor. There are two strategies, but for either strategy both bolts need to have rappel rings, chains, or hooks (with gates). Make sure you agree on which strategy you will use with your partner beforehand. See this guide for cleaning a sport anchor.

Anchor is cleaned. Ready to lower!
Anchor is cleaned. Ready to lower!

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