Risk Mitigation

  • Inspect your gear before you climb.
  • Clip the rope correctly through quickdraws, don't back clip or z-clip.
  • Extend quickdraws as necessary to reduce rope drag and prevent carabiner cross-loading on the rock. Most quickdraws come in two different lengths to help with this.
  • Use a stick clip or crash pad if the beginning of the climb is difficult. A fall before reaching the first bolt can cause a sprained ankle or more severe injury.
  • Beware of a precarious belay spot. If the start of the climb is next to a steep drop-off, a fall before reaching the first bolt could pull the belayer off the hill as well. Place a ground anchor for the belayer or use a stick-clip to mitigate this risk.

Precarious belay spot next to a dropoff
Precarious belay spot next to a dropoff

A ground anchor for the belayer helps prevent a rope team from tumbling down a hill
A ground anchor for the belayer helps prevent a rope team from tumbling down a hill

  • Be aware of ledges or other obstructions the leader could hit during a lead fall. Place gear to protect these parts of the climb.
  • Wear a helmet. Beware of climbers above you that could dislodge rocks or drop gear.
  • Make a plan ahead of time for whether the leader will lower or rappel.
  • Always tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope to close the system.
  • Make sure your anchor is SERENE-A.

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