Belaying from above is a technique used in multi-pitch climbing to belay a second climber as they climb up to the anchor that the lead climber has built. While the advice below is a general guide, please read the manufacturers instructions for details on how to use your specific device.
Tubular device
In these photos a Petzl Reverso is being used to belay directly from the anchor. The climber strand and brake strand are the same as the picture on the device. The device can be attached to the shelf or the master point of the anchor. The climber strand going down over the brake strand creates some assisted braking.
Lowering from above with a tubular device
Because the tubular device has assisted braking in guide mode, you have to defeat the assist in order to lower a climber. First, redirect the brake strand through a carabiner attached to the shelf of the anchor and add a third hand friction hitch attached to your belay loop. We will show two methods, a carabiner to lift the load strand and a double sling.
Load strand lift
Double length sling
Redirect the double length through the shelf and back to your belay loop. With your hands controlling the brake strand, lean back to pull on the double length sling and defeat the assisted braking on the device.
Grigri
In this photo a Petzl Grigri is being used to belay directly from the anchor. When using a Grigri in this fashion make sure the camming action of the grigri is not blocked by anything (such as the rock or other gear attached to the anchor).
Lowering from above with a Grigri
An extra carabiner through the master point should be used to redirect the brake strand to create additional friction when lowering from above with a Grigri directly attached to the anchor.