Bolts are permanent fixtures in the rock. As a climber it's important to be evaluate all fixed gear before trusting your safety to it. In order to be secure, the rock must be solid, the bolt and hanger must be modern and in good condition, and it must be tightened/installed properly.
Modern types of bolts:
- 3/8" and 1/2" stainless steel 5 piece expansion bolts
- Wedge bolts
- Titanium glue-in bolts. Often used in corrosive environments.
Less trustworthy types of bolts:
- 1/4" bolts
- 5/16" bolts
- Button Heads
- Homemade hangers
Warning signs
- Rust. It is difficult to know what condition the bolt is inside the rock, and rust on the outside can be indicative of more serious problems within.
- Spinning or loose bolt. Can be indicative of a poor fit with the rock. Not trustworthy. Check a bolt by wiggling it around to make sure it is solid before using it.