Figure 8 Follow-Through
The figure 8 follow through loop is the most common way to attach a climbing rope to your harness.
- Take up an arms length of rope (you'll figure out what length is right for you with practice. This is longer than the amount shown in the pictures).
- Tie a figure 8 in the rope. This is like a normal overhand knot but with one extra twist before going through the hole.
- Pass the free end of the rope through both hard-points in your harness.
- Follow the figure 8 back through, starting with the more difficult side and maintaining parallel lines throughout.
- Snug it up (dress the knot). There should be at least 6 inches of tail.
Figure 8 on a bight
The figure 8 can also be tied on a bight of rope to create a loop (e.g. in a pre-equalized trad anchor).
Beware of tension on both strands outside the knot. The figure 8 rolls easily in this configuration! Make sure to keep something clipped in to the loop to prevent this.
Figure 8 bend
The figure 8 can also be used to join two equal diameter strands of rope together. This is similar to the figure 8 follow-through. This knot is suitable for use in anchors (e.g. joining a cordelette into a loop).
Figure 9
The figure 9 is the figure 8 with one or more extra twists. This uses more material so is useful if you need to shorten an anchor, for instance.
