Climbing rope is used to catch falls. It consists of an outer sheath and an inner core. For lead climbing, a dynamic single rated climbing rope is needed. Most ropes
Types of ropes
- Single: Can be used in a single strand to catch leader falls.
- Half rope: Use two strands to lead climb, clip one to each piece of protection. Useful for wandering routes.
- Twin rope: Similar to half rope, but you clip both ropes to the same pieces.
- Static rope: Not suitable for lead climbing. Useful for hauling, fixed lines, and building/extending anchors.
Diameter
Here are some guidelines:
- 10.2mm+: Durable ropes, good for big wall climbing or frequent use.
- 9.8mm: Most common diameter for single ropes.
- 9.4mm: Sport line, used infrequently for hard routes, or to save weight. Not as durable.
- 9mm: About as skinny as single lines go.
- 8mm-9mm: Half rope, typical diameter.
- 7mm-8mm: Twin rope, typical diameter.
Length
Single ropes typically come in these lengths:
- 50m: On the short side for modern climbing.
- 60m: Most common rope length. Most rappels and pitches are suitable for this length (or double 60m ropes).
- 70m: Useful for linking pitches, or a slingshot belay on long single pitch climbs, and longer rappels.
- 80m: Specialty rope length for linking pitches, and longer rappels.
Historically 50m ropes were often used for climbing. Eventually, 60m became the standard. Check the length of the pitches and typical pitch lengths in the area you are climbing when informing which length of rope you should buy or use.
Other features
- Middle marker: an indication of the middle of the rope, which is useful when rappelling to center the rope. These can fade with time and use.
- Bi-pattern: Each half of the rope has a different pattern. Easy to tell which half is which, and doesn't wear out.
- Dry Treatment: Reduces water absorption. Useful for mountaineering, alpine climbing, and ice climbing.
Caring for a rope
Keeping a rope clean keeps your hands clean and may extend the life of your rope. Many climbers use a rope tarp to prevent their rope from being exposed to dirt and dust. Avoid stepping on your rope and grinding it into the dust.
From time to time you can wash your rope with plain water to get dust and aluminum shavings out of it. Follow the rope manufacturers guidelines for caring for your rope.
Core shot
A core shot occurs when the sheath is damaged and the core (usually white) of the rope is visible. This means the integrity of the rope is damaged, and you should isolate the core shot until you can get down from the climb with an alpine butterfly. Afterwards, you can cut the damage part of the rope off (which makes your rope shorter).
Wet rope
A wet rope should not be lead climbed on because lead falls on a wet rope can cause permanent damage. It is still strong enough to rappel on. Once you get home, let your rope dry out thoroughly before storing it. Turn it occasionally to ensure all parts dry out.