Quad is tied using a cordelette. It is a highly redundant and self equalizing anchor which is favored any time there is a 2 bolt anchor.
- First tie it into a loop using a double fisherman's, figure 8 bend, or well-dressed flat overhand.
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- Then double up the loops and tie two limiting figure 8 knots.
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Click each of the legs to the bolts. Use locking carabiners if you are top roping. If you are belaying at the anchor, you can choose to use non-lockers.
It is best to clip directly to the bolt hanger if there is room, but if there is not, you can clip along the chain. Try not to clip to the rappel rings directly, because you or another party may want to use them.
- Clip two stands of the 4 in the middle as an anchor point. You can use either of the two strands. It is important to only clip two strands and not all 4, because then the carabiner is contained in the case one leg of the anchor fails (e.g. through a bolt pulling out, or cordelette failure).
